After dozens of health scares over the safety of pet food, toothpaste and even baby toys, a demand for products free of synthetic preservatives, additives or colors is flooding the market, and skincare companies are quick to comply.

According to Information Resources Inc., Americans are spending in excess of $100 million on the top three natural, personal care brands, including Burt's Bees, Jason Natural Cosmetics and Tom's of Maine. And sales of organic health and beauty products reached $350 million in 2006--$68 million more than 2005. Jeremiah McElwee, senior coordinator for personal care at Whole Foods (the company's fastest growing segment), notes "The biggest impetus for buying natural or organic body care is the perceived health benefit."

However, beauty industry representatives, as well as for the government are quick to point out that a perceived benefit of a natural ingredient does not necessarily translate into a real benefit to the consumer. "Consumers should not necessarily assume that an 'organic' or 'natural' ingredient...would possess greater inherent safety than another chemically identical version of the same ingredient."

A lack of national standards is often cited as a major contributor to this natural vs. synthetic confusion, translating into major frustration for the consumer. Linda Katz, director of the FDA's office of Cosmetics and Colors points out that "The FDA has never imposed standard definitions for marketing terms such as natural and organic ...manufacturers are free to use such terms on everything from synthetic-based shampoos with one plant derivative to a synthetic-free face powder formulated with only minerals".

The only standard the FDA holds personal care manufacturers accountable for is ensuring that cosmetics are safe for their intended use, but everything else, including product claims and efficacy is left up to the manufacturer. Jane Houlihan, vice president for research at the Environmental Working Group, holds this lack of regulatory standards responsible for consumer confusion "...you need to read the ingredient label. Just because an ingredient comes from a plant does not necessarily make it safe to use in a cosmetic. Tobacco, hemlock and poison ivy are all examples of plants that can be hazardous".

Some natural ingredients can also cause allergic reactions in certain individuals, in spite of being labeled natural, pure or organic. To combat this confusion, dozens of skincare companies and stores are taking matters into their own hands, and concocting in-house definitions to guide consumers through the differences between 'organic', 'natural' or 'botanical'. "...People should not interpret even the USDA Organic seal on cosmetics as proof of health benefits or of efficacy. The National Organic Program is a marketing program, not a safety program", says USDA department spokeswoman Joan Shaffer, underscoring the need for consumers to be more than savvy when it comes to purchasing 'natural' or 'organic' skincare products.