The search for the fountain of youth in the form of serums and creams continues into 2007 with six important antiaging breakthroughs. In a recent article, written by Colette Bouchez for WebMD, experts dispel the myths and get down to the science of the newest antiaging products.
Fractional CO2 Laser Skin Resurfacing
This procedure is as effective as traditional carbon dioxide lasers but without the harsh side effects. David Goldberg, MD, professor of dermatology in New York City, explains, "Essentially, you are getting all the benefits of laser resurfacing, still the best way to remove wrinkles, but you're getting it without the downtime and without the horrendous complication rate." It works by using small beams of energy light to create tiny holes into the skin, boosting collagen production that has been destroyed by the natural aging process. Healing time for fractional CO2 laser resurfacing is only a couple of days; this is accomplished because it doesn't damage the top skin layer in the same way that older laser skin resurfacing does. These effects may be costly (up to $5,000) but last 8-10 years.
Wrinkle Injections
Wrinkle injection technology has only just begun. The year 2007 introduced four new fillers, each with a different substance that can be used to plump the skin with a natural look: Perlane, Juvéderm, Artfill and Radiesse. The natural look achieved using such fillers goes above and beyond the traditional facelift. Says dermatologist Bruce Katz of New York City, "Unlike a face-lift, which pulls the skin taut and tight, volumizing plumps up the skin so the look is youthful but more natural." Additionally, wrinkle fillers like Restylane and Juvéderm contain hyaluronic acid, which leads to an increase in collagen production. Side effects are mostly mild, and the cost is between $600 to $1,000 per syringe.
Antioxidants
Coffee berry is the only one of the major antioxidants showing an incredible ability to protect and rejuvenate the skin, and cosmetic companies are catching on to the new buzz. Says Sumayah Jamal, MD, in New York City, "Antioxidants are nutrients that, when topically applied, disarm and neutralize free radicals before they harm skin - so they can play an important role in antiaging skin care." Currently, these formulas range from $40 to $110, and are only offered in the Reval?Skin product line by Stiefel Laboratories. It's expected that more options will be available in 2008.
Peptides
Peptide technology is not new in itself, but the formulas of 2007 are an overall improvement. These small proteins actually stimulate collagen production, producing an effect similar to Botox by preventing the muscles in the face from forming new wrinkles. The newer formulas also increase cell turnover. "They are really getting the science down now, learning how to stabilize the peptides and at the same time inhibit collagenase [collagen breakdown] so we have better, more tailored peptide products," says dermatologist Ken Beer, MD, in Florida. Peptide formulas can cost anywhere from $30 to $75 per ounce.
Vitamin A
Known as retinoids and commonly found in products like Retin A and Renova, these derivatives of vitamin A are "thought to work on aging skin by increasing collagen production and decreasing collagen breakdown," says Jamal. A recent 2007 study showed that even non-prescription strength retinoids, in strengths of 0.4%, showed significant antiaging results. "We now know that both [prescription and non-prescription strength] have the power to produce measurable antiaging results," says Goldberg. The popularity of retinoids is spreading, and even drug stores now offer effective formulas for as little as $16.99.
Antiaging Sunscreens
While UVB rays that cause sunburn are common knowledge, UVA rays have been a mystery for some time. Newer research is showing that UVA rays are a major factor in aging. "These are the ones that go deep - UVA rays cause the deep collagen and elastin damage that contributes to aging skin," says Katz. The two breakthrough formulas that shield UVA rays are Helioplex and Mexoryl SX (ecamsule). Both offer long-lasting protection and aren't degraded by time spent in the sun, so there is no need to constantly reapply. Helioplex products can cost as little as $10 for a 3 ounce tube, while products containing Mexoryl SX are pricier at $35 per tube.