While it’s important to stay on top of the latest and greatest skin care breakthroughs, don’t overlook the tried and true ingredients that have stood the test of time. The following 10 ingredients have been around the skin care block, and are embraced by dermatologists and consumers alike for their ability to truly transform the skin.

1. L-ascorbic acid

• Ideal for: Scarring and aging skin
• What is it? Because L-ascorbic acid is a highly stable form of vitamin C, it’s the type most experts recommend for the treatment of aging skin. This rich antioxidant boosts the synthesis of collagen in order to reduce the signs of aging including fine lines, scars and wrinkles.
• Find it in: When seeking the benefits of vitamin C, look for L-ascorbic acid on the label. Abella Cellution C 12% Topical Vitamin C features a potent dose of L-ascorbic acid to defend skin against UV radiation and free radical damage while improving skin tone and strength through increased collagen synthesis.

For the eyes, reach for SkinCeuticals Eye Gel AOX to repair and prevent environmental damage. This innovative eye gel blends L-ascorbic acid with ferulic acid and works for up to four days beneath the surface of skin to defend cells against the sun and free radicals.

2. Copper peptide

• Ideal for: Aging skin
• What is it? Studies reveal that copper peptide stimulates the production of structural fibers including collagen and elastin beneath the surface of skin, while promoting the body’s ability to restore tissue. In addition, it acts as an antioxidant to defend skin against the free radicals that cause aging and enhances the body’s ability to heal wounds and scars. By including this ingredient in your daily skin care regimen, you can simultaneously protect and repair skin from everyday oxidative damage.
• Find it in: You’ll find the power of copper peptides in HydroPeptide Anti Wrinkle Cellular Transformation Growth Serum. Use daily to restore the texture and elasticity of skin. For eyes, add Jan Marini Age Intervention Eye Cream to your regimen. This advanced eye treatment features a unique, patented combination of copper peptides and retinol that synergistically work to transform the delicate area around the eyes.

3. Alpha-lipoic acid

• Ideal for: Aging skin
• What is it? Also known as lipoic acid, alpha-lipoic acid is well known for its effective action against the signs of aging. Because it’s both water and oil-soluble, alpha-lipoic acid can penetrate the entire cell for improved efficacy in the defense against free radicals and improve the look of aging skin. Ronald R. Brancaccio, clinical professor of dermatology at the New York University School of Medicine, tells Real Simple that alpha-lipoic also "helps with exfoliation and the stimulation of collagen, which may lead to a smoother appearance of the skin."
• Find it in: Janson Beckett Alpha Lipoic Night Cream works hard while you sleep to reverse the signs of aging, for skin that’s visibly younger and healthier when you wake up.

4. DMAE (dimethylaminoethanol)

• Ideal for: Aging skin
• What is it? Introduced to the skin care market in the early 1990s, DMAE continues to be a go-to ingredient for anti-aging. Naturally produced in the brain and found in many types of fish, DMAE in skin care products demonstrates impressive effects. Dr. Nicholas Perricone explains to WebMD, “DMAE, when eaten in larger amounts, can increase muscle tone and therefore decrease the appearance of sagging. As a side note, DMAE can be placed into a lotion form and applied to the skin to decrease sagging and increase muscle tone.”

• Find it in: Perricone MD Advanced Face Firming Activator blends DMAE with alpha lipoic acid, sodium hyaluronate, glycolic acid and green tea extract to tone, tighten, restore and repair skin for a visibly younger appearance almost immediately.

5. Retinol

• Ideal for: Aging skin, hyperpigmentation and dry skin
• What is it? Retinols are antioxidant compounds derived from vitamin A. These tiny micro-molecules are able to penetrate skin where they neutralize the free radicals that break down skin fibers and cause wrinkles. Retinols are available over the counter and are ideal for those with sensitive skin. Retinol is proven to improve mottled pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, skin texture, skin tone and color, and your skin’s hydration levels.

Stronger vitamin A derivatives come in the form of tretinoin (available as Retin-A and Renova) and are only available by prescription. Also, retinol palmitate is a less potent retinoid that you might find in over-the-counter treatments. Although it’s effective, it’s less potent and you may have to use more of the product to achieve the same results as retinol.

• Find it in: You can find retinol in a variety of over-the-counter treatments. For a highly concentrated dose, try Topix Replenix Retinol Plus Smoothing Serum 10X. This retinol-based serum is infused with green tea and hyaluronic acid to bring hydrating, restorative action that’s ideal for most skin types. Those with sensitive skin should opt for 2X for sensitive skin or 3x for normal skin. To transform the area around the eyes, apply Topix Replenix All Trans Retinol Eye Repair Cream, formulated with vitamin K and arnica to combat dark circles and an advanced peptide and retinol blend to brighten and tighten skin.

6. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs)

• Ideal for: Aging skin and hyperpigmentation
• What is it? Alpha-hydroxy acids (also known as hydroxy acids) include glycolic, lactic, tartaric and citric acids. Creams and lotions with AHAs improve the appearance of fine lines, pigmentation and age spots, and minimize the size of pores. Because AHAs may elevate skin’s sensitivity to the sun, experts recommend the use of sunscreen when using these products.
• Find it in: NeoStrata Foaming Glycolic Wash AHA 20 is a soap-free cleanser that mildly exfoliates skin for a fresher, younger-looking appearance. Follow up with NeoStrata Ultra Skin Smoothing Cream AHA 10. Armed with eight percent glycolic acid and two percent AHA citric acid, this AHA blend corrects the signs of photoaging while defending against damage from oxidation.

7. Beta-hydroxy acid (salicylic acid)

• Ideal for: Acne prone skin, aging skin and sensitive skin
• What is it? The most common form of beta-hydroxy acid is salicylic acid. This well-known skin-improving ingredient is hailed for its ability to gently exfoliate for improved texture and tone. It also penetrates pores and hair follicles to dissolve away blemish-causing oil for a clearer complexion. Leslie Baumann, MD, explains, "When used on a regular basis, it can decrease the frequency and severity of acne eruptions." Considered milder than AHAs, salicylic acid is a better option for sensitive or irritated skin and is available in a variety of different over-the-counter formulas.
• Find it in: DermaQuest Skin Therapy Beta Hydroxy Cleanser dissolves away blemish-causing debris from pores and follicles for clearer, healthier skin and fewer breakouts.

8. Coenzyme Q10

• Ideal for: Aging skin
• What is it? Also known as ubiquinone or idebenone, coenyzme Q10 is one of the strongest antioxidants found in the skin care industry. Its anti-inflammatory properties "help preserve collagen and elastin," which gives the skin support and resilience, says Lisa Donofrio, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at the Yale University School of Medicine. This compound also contributes toward the control of energy synthesis in cells and may help prevent sun damage.
• Find it in: Capitalize on coenzyme Q10 by incorporating EmerginC Hyper Vitalizer Cream into your daily skin care regimen. This nourishing lotion blends alpha-lipoic acid, coenzyme Q10 and lutein for lasting benefits of hydrated and strengthened skin.

9. Hyaluronic acid

• Ideal for: Aging skin and dry skin
• What is it? Hyaluronic acid is a compound that exists naturally in skin, joints and connective tissues to provide cushioning and lubrication. Over time, the concentration of hyaluronic acid in the body decreases. When applied as a skin care ingredient, hyaluronic acid attracts and seals water into the skin. "When you hydrate the skin from outside, you make fine lines less noticeable," explains Susan Weinkle, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at the University of South Florida in Tampa.
• Find it in: Kerstin Florian Hyaluronic Serum provides a nourishing dose of hyaluronic acid to protect and nourish skin while soothing antioxidants balance and restore radiance, tone and texture. This formula is ideal for all skin types.

10. Green tea extract

• Ideal for: Aging skin and acne prone skin
• What is it? Patricia Farris, a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at Tulane University in New Orleans, explains to Real Simple that green tea "is one of the most potent forms of photo-protection” with the ability to protect skin against sun damage. Some studies even show that using products containing at least five percent green tea extract may defend skin against developing skin cancer when applied with sun block prior to going outside. Because of its widespread benefits, green tea is ideal for all skin types and all ages.
• Find it in: ARCONA Green Tea Lotion brings intense hydration to the hands and body, featuring a nourishing blend of green tea, ivy, Paraguay tea and mandarin. For the face, Quintessence Green Tea Toner offers antioxidant and hydrating benefits and helps to balance pH and soothe irritated skin.

Study hard for healthy skin

An effective skin care routine depends on the right ingredients. From time to time, sit down with your dermatologist or the computer and do some research to discover the latest, greatest discoveries in the world of skin care science. You’ll be rewarded with an optimal skin care routine and a healthy, beautiful complexion.

See also:

Back To School Study Guide Part One: Ten Up-and-Coming Ingredients

12 Months to Transform Your Skin: New Year’s Resolutions You CAN Achieve!

Experience a New Way to Pamper

Skincare & Beauty FAQ Handbook – Part 9: Ingredients