Women have used mascara for centuries to make their eyes appear bigger, more defined and subtly dramatic. This article will shed some light on mascara's deeply rooted history, help you decode the array of formulas and shades available and share some simple tips that’ll help you master the application of mascara.

Mascara's evolution

• 4,000 B.C.: Ancient Egyptian women used kohl, a black eye paint derived from a type of crystal rock called galena, to distinctively darken their eyes and lashes, as well as protect their eyes from the harsh Egyptian sun. Kohl was mixed with other substances such as soot, copper, lead or burnt almonds, and blended with an adhering ointment like animal fat, crocodile dung, honey or onion water.

Since it was common for women in Egypt to apply kohl on a daily basis, wealth and class were reflected in the quality of the kohl applicators and storage jars. Upper-class women used ivory sticks as applicators and kept their kohl in intricate jars decorated with jewels, while lower-class women used wooden sticks and plain clay pots.

• Victorian Era: Pale lashes were considered sickly, so women sought to create dark, alluring eyelashes by applying caster oil, elderberry juice or even heated ashes to their lashes.

• Early 1900s: French perfumer Eugene Rimmel invented the first modern form of mascara using the newly discovered petroleum jelly, also known as Vaseline. This advancement was so important that “Rimmel” continues to be the word for mascara in many languages, including Italian, Dutch, Persian, Spanish, Portuguese, Romanian and Turkish.

• 1913: Around the same time, New York chemist T. L. Williams, largely credited for popularizing mascara, saw his sister apply a mixture of coal dust and Vaseline to darken her lashes, so he began producing this mascara on a small scale. It became so popular that he founded The Maybelline Company – a combination of his sister's name Maybel and Vaseline.

• 1920s: Mascara's popularity rose quickly with the budding film industry, and it was an essential cosmetic for actresses such as Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich and Bette Davis. Makeup artist Max Factor began testing mascara in silent films with actress Theda Bara, combing a hot wax mixture through each of her lashes to create clusters of thickened lashes.

• 1958: Mascara application was extremely messy and difficult, even when using wet brushes, so Polish cosmetics industrialist Helena Rubinstein created more effective application wands that truly modernized mascara.

• Early 1960s: Waterproof mascara hit the shelves, giving women an alternative to Twiggy-inspired false lashes.

• 1971: Maybelline unveiled its Great Lash mascara, and this iconic green and pink tube continues to be a best seller – in the United States alone, one tube is sold every 1.9 seconds.

• 2008: Vibrating mascara wands first appeared on the market. Battery-operated with vibrations about 7,000 times a minute, these applicators are a 21st century way to separate and thicken lashes.

Tips on applying mascara. Applying mascara is very straightforward, and these tips should help you create a clean and polished look.

• Curl your lashes. Using an eyelash curler before applying mascara can make your eyes seem bigger and your lashes appear longer. Eyelash curlers have a handle much like scissors, so gently squeeze them to crimp your lashes upward between the two rounded bars, creating a curled effect. After a few seconds, slowly release the curler and repeat on the other eye.

Always use a lash curler before applying mascara to avoid broken and untidy-looking lashes, and choose a curler with a sponge along the lower bar to better protect your lashes. Replace this sponge when it starts to look worn out. Some women warm up their curler with a hair dryer, or even use a heated lash curler like Blinc Heated Lash Curler to set the curl and create a more natural look.

• Avoid the urge to pump. Many of us are guilty of pumping the mascara brush in its tube, thinking we’ll get more product out and minimize clumps, but this actually forces air into the tube and causes mascara to dry up. Instead, if the mascara wand looks clumpy, simply wipe the tip of the wand on a towel or a piece of tissue before starting your application.

• Apply mascara evenly and lightly. On the upper lashes, hold the mascara wand horizontally and gently swipe your lashes from the base outwards, starting at the outside of the eye and gradually moving inward toward your nose, rotating the wand with each stroke to avoid clumping. Always apply mascara to the underside of your upper lashes, otherwise they’ll look weighed down.

On the lower lashes, hold the wand lightly and rotate to coat the lashes evenly. Discovery Health cautions, “Lower-lash mascara is the biggest culprit of those dark streaks that can run down your cheek after crying, sweating or getting caught in a rainstorm. Cover just your top lashes if you expect to be in a wet situation.”

• Clean up pesky smudges. Always check your eyes for any mascara smudges , as they can look sloppy and unprofessional. To get rid of a smudge, gently wipe it away with a cotton ball dipped in makeup remover.

• Use an eyelash brush to separate lashes. An eyelash brush is an easy way to remove mascara clumps and further separate your lashes. It's simply a wand with a small-toothed comb on one end. To use, run through your eyelashes base to tip before and after applying mascara. It's important to keep this brush clean, so wash it in soap and water once a week and opt for a folding brush like Tweezerman Folding Ilashcomb to protect the comb teeth from breaking.

• Caution: don't apply too much! The right amount of mascara is essential to avoid clumpy, heavy, “spider” lashes. Give your lashes a single, even coat of mascara, and stop when you start to see clumps. If you’d like to put on two coats for a more dramatic look, let the mascara dry before adding the second layer. Applying mascara later in the day over the morning's coat can also lead to clumps, so if you want a fresh look for the evening, remove your old mascara before re-applying.

Understanding the many mascara options

On a basic level, mascara contains a combination of a carbon black or iron oxide pigment that creates that dark color, a polymer to coat the lashes, a preservative and a thickening wax. Today, store shelves are filled with countless ingredient formulas to choose from, whether you need a subtle, all-weather mascara for a date in the park or a dramatic, volumizing mascara for a night on the dance floor.

• Water-soluble. This basic, traditional type of mascara, like bareMinerals Flawless Definition Mascara, is a good choice for everyday wear because it's fairly easy to remove with water. You should still use an eye makeup remover to ensure that all traces of the mascara are removed.

• Waterproof. The key difference between water-soluble and waterproof mascara is that waterproof formulas contain isododecane, a water-repellent solvent that’s less likely to streak when wet – but it’s difficult to remove and can cause damage to your lashes. Because of this, waterproof mascara isn’t the best choice for everyday wear. Try blinc Mascara for weddings and other occasions when you know that your mascara might run. Also, it's easy to assume that waterproof also means smear-proof, but be careful – the oils from your skin or moisturizer can cause even the best waterproof mascara to break down and smudge.

• Volumizing. Volumizing mascara, like bareMinerals Flawless Definition Volumizing Mascara, typically contains more synthetic fibers to thicken the lashes, such as nylon or rayon. These fibers cling to the lashes and make them appear plump and full. Unlike curved brushes that curl or long, comb-like brushes that are designed to separate lashes, volumizing brushes are typically short to create thicker lashes.

• Lengthening. Conditioning vitamins such as A, C and E are often found in lengthening mascaras such as Too Faced LashLight to make the lashes stronger and thicker. Lengthening formulas often come with a comb or long brush to separate the lashes, creating an overall longer look.

• Curling. Curling mascara, like Colorescience Pro Volume Brown Thick and Curly Mascara, uses a curved brush to give lashes an extra upturn.

Choosing the right color

Mascara colors today go beyond the basic black or brown; there are now varying intensities – blackest black, black brown, dark brown – and shades of every color from blues and greens to purples and reds. Black shades create a polished and dramatic look on any woman, but browns give a more natural look on blondes and redheads. Colored mascaras can be fun, but they don't give a very professional look, so makeup artist Bobbi Brown advises, “Leave trendy colors like blue, plum and hunter to the teenagers.”

Removing mascara

Your method for removing mascara is just as important as the application. If you aren't careful, mascara can be an ideal breeding ground for harmful bacteria that can lead to swollen eyes, sties or even conjunctivitis. It’s a good practice to remove your eye makeup before you wash your face at night, otherwise the water can push the makeup into your eyes and cause irritation. Soak a cotton swab or pad in makeup remover and wipe your eyelashes clean to ensure that all traces of the mascara are safely removed without irritation. Bobbi Brown suggests, “Don’t tug or rub when removing mascara because this irritates the eye area and can make lashes fall out. Soak a cotton ball with remover, press down on lashes to dissolve mascara, then gently wipe it away.” For a gentle, natural eye-makeup remover, try Melvita Essentials Eye Makeup Remover.

Mascara safety tips to remember

• Expiration. Mascara has a very short lifespan, so it's important to replace your tube every three months, or sooner if you notice a change in consistency or smell. See our article on expired cosmetic products for a complete guide here.

• Sharing. The rule for sharing mascara is simple – don't do it! It’s very easy to transfer bacteria through mascara, so if you really want to try your friend's new shade, wait until you can buy your own tube. When trying mascara in the store, make sure to use the disposable wands and wash your hands before and after.

Bottom line: Defined eyes

Mascara is one of the oldest forms of makeup, and for a good reason – it’s an easy way to give your eyes a dramatic, polished look. Regardless of the type and color of your mascara, it’s a simple but essential part of the makeup routine.

See also:

A Makeup Manual for Beginners: Simple Techniques for a Flawless Face

All About Lipstick: History and How-To

10 Daring Fashion and Beauty Trends To Try This Summer

A Makeup Manual for Sensitive Skin