Nail health and growth

Nails are made up of keratin proteins. Typically, they grow “an eighth of an inch per month,” writes Michele Bender in Good Housekeeping. However, hormonal fluctuations, temperature or seasonal changes, diet, age and nail trauma or infection can influence this rate.

Also, people’s nails grow at different rates, according to nail specialist and New York University dermatology professor Paul Kechijian, M.D. And there’s no way you can make nails grow longer or faster.

Medical conditions can also affect nail health and appearance. For example, thin nails, ridges and changes in nail color could be signs of iron deficiency. Heart conditions may result in reddish nails. Thyroid problems can cause nails to become dry and brittle. Lung, kidney, liver or other conditions can also lead to changes in nail color and texture, reports Sherry Rauh in Redbook.

However, not everyone with these health problems will develop nail symptoms, and usually other non-nail symptoms will show up first. On the other hand, having nail problems doesn’t necessarily mean that you have one of these diseases, according to Christine Laine, M.D., a spokesperson for the American College of Physicians.

Proper care for strong, healthy nails

To prevent weak, damaged nails, TLC is a must. Protecting your nails from dehydration and keeping them moisturized are crucial. In fact, many nail problems — dullness, roughness, weakness, softness, splitting and peeling — result from dryness and dehydration. Moisturizing creams, oils or vitamin E capsules restore hydration, so nails become strong and healthy.

Also, be sure to moisturize and care for your cuticles (the skin surrounding the edge of your nail bed). Cuticles are the starting point from which new nails grow. “If the cuticle is supple, the new cells can push through more easily, so they arrive at the nail bed in the best of health,” explains Helen Foster in The Beauty Book.

In addition, dermatologist Audrey Kunin, M.D., says that dry cuticles can tear, split and crack, leading to painful hangnails and infection. Check out SpaRitual Cuti-Cocktail Nail and Cuticle Oil, featuring grapeseed and evening primrose oils to condition your cuticles and encourage healthy growth.

It may seem counterintuitive, but soaking your hands in water — especially hot water — will suck out natural moisture from your skin and nails. Harsh cleaners and detergents make the problem even worse. The result? Rough skin and weak nails.

To protect your hands, nails and cuticles, always wear rubber gloves when cleaning or washing dishes. Then, slather on a rich hand cream to replace lost moisture. Jurlique Rose Hand Cream protects hands against dryness and roughness, delivering a mega-dose of moisture with vitamin E and aloe vera.

Another tip — don’t use your nails to open, scratch, peel or pick at objects. This weakens them and makes them more prone to breakage.

Steps to a polished manicure

No need to spend big bucks for a salon manicure. You can DIY, with a little bit of know-how and patience — and you’ll enjoy strong, healthy and polished nails!

• Prepping

• Remove any old nail polish. Even if you don’t have any polish on, you should still swipe your nails with polish remover (and a cotton ball) to remove natural oils or residue. These actually prevent polish from adhering, according to Good Housekeeping. Generally, opt for a non-acetone polish remover, because acetone formulas can dehydrate and weaken your nails. However, to remove dark or metallic glittery polish, you may need an acetone remover. Look for one that says “strengthening” or “nourishing,” with ingredients like aloe or vitamin E, suggests Jennifer Tung in InStyle Getting Gorgeous.
  
• File your nails into the desired shape. Be careful to file in one direction only. Don’t “see-saw” back and forth with your file, as this will weaken your nails, making them prone to peeling and breaking. Use a fine or medium grit file, keep it clean and replace it often. If your file is too dull, you’ll press too hard and damage your nails, says manicurist Deborah Lippmann on iVillage. Try Bliss Diamancel #2 File - Medium. The nail shape you choose is up to you, and can range from square-tipped to a rounded oval to a pointy edge or any shape in between. The “squoval” is a combination of square edge with rounded corners, and is one of the most popular shapes. Keep in mind, though, that each shape has drawbacks. Pointy nails are more likely to break. It can be difficult to make both sides of a rounded oval nail symmetrical and even. And square nails have a tendency to make your nails and fingers look shorter and wider.
• Buff out any uneven ridges in your nails with a special buffing block or chamois buffer. This will make your nails smooth and let nail polish adhere to them better.
• If you wish, soak your fingertips in a bowl of warm water for a few minutes. While some experts recommend this step, others say you can skip it. Or, gently use a washcloth to push cuticles back in the shower. Another option is to apply cuticle softening cream remover, such as Trind Cuticle Remover, and then push cuticles back using an orangewood manicure stick. But never cut or pick at your cuticles — this invites bacteria and infection.
• Apply rich hand cream to ensure your hands and nails are well hydrated. Wipe off any extra, and give your nails another swipe of polish remover to remove residue before you paint them.

• Polishing

• Gather up your basecoat, colored polish and topcoat. Gently roll the bottles back and forth between your palms. Shaking them creates air bubbles, resulting in a clumpy application.
• Start with a clear, multitasking basecoat. A basecoat prevents polish from staining or discoloring nails, strengthens nails, fills in bumps or ridges and helps nail polish stick to your nails so it won’t chip. SpaRitual Resurface Smoothing Primer Basecoat provides the perfect foundation for your manicure.
  
• Wait one minute, and then apply a coat of colored polish. With so many shades out there, how do you know which ones will flatter your fingers? Consider your skin tone. For warm skin tones, go with brown-based pinks, corals or oranges. If you have cool skin tones, pick berry or pink shades with cool blue undertones, advises Tung. Wipe the brush along the bottle’s inner rim so you don’t have too much polish glopped on the brush. Start at the cuticle and move the brush out towards your fingertip edge. “Apply polish in three strokes (down the center, then one down each side),” writes Tung.
  
• Give the first coat two minutes to dry and apply a second coat of colored polish. Not waiting enough time between coats can cause smudging, and ultimately take longer for polish to dry. Be sure to swipe it along the edge and under the tips of your nails, too.
  
• Finish with a clear topcoat. This provides a glossy finish and protects your polish from chips, nicks and scratches. SpaRitual Impeccable Protective Polish Shield uses natural vegan ingredients and helps to stave off unsightly chips and smudges. Avoid “fast-drying” or “quick-drying” topcoats, because they can leave a tacky finish that won’t protect your nails like regular topcoats, according to Good Housekeeping. Then, wait at least 20 minutes to ensure that all polish layers are dry. Re-apply topcoat every other day to keep your manicure looking fresh.

Treat your hands and nails with tons of TLC. Keeping them hydrated, groomed and polished will always be in style!

See also:

A Step-by-Step Guide to Stunning Nails

A Step-by-Step Guide to the Perfect Pedicure

10 Penny-Pinching Ways to Pamper Yourself