How skin cells maintain moisture

First, before we delve into some of the best ingredients to look for in a moisturizer, let’s begin with a skincare lesson on how skin cells hold onto water – and why this is essential. Understanding this process will help you better understand skin-quenching ingredients and why you need a moisturizer in the first place.

A skin cell’s membrane locks in water, which is necessary for restorative and reparative processes. Young cells in lower skin layers – like the dermis – are round, plump and hold onto water easily. However, as cells age and move to outer skin layers – such as the epidermis – cells “flatten and die. As they do, they slowly release their contents, the water and structural lipids inside them,” explains dermatologist Howard Murad, M.D., in his book, The Murad Method: Wrinkle-Proof, Repair and Renew Your Skin with the Proven 5-Week Program.

When cells move outward and age, they break down and are less able to retain water. It evaporates from cells into the air, an event called transepidermal water loss, or TEWL. Dr. Murad compares the process to heat escaping from a cracked, shabby roof.

Plus, as skin cells age, skin’s protective barrier becomes compromised, making water retention more difficult. With a weakened barrier, dry skin becomes increasingly susceptible to environmental damage, free radicals, bacterial infection and other problems. So using a good moisturizer is key. And it comes with countless benefits!

1. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

• What they do. AHAs get rid of dead, rough, dry, flaky skin that builds up on skin’s surface, revealing fresh, new, smoother skin. AHAs “enhance the skin’s exfoliation process so it feels exceptionally silky,” notes Jennifer Tung in InStyle Getting Gorgeous.

Exfoliation also helps the skin absorb products more effectively, so moisturizers are able to sink into the skin and deliver hydration. Because they slough off skin’s top layer, AHAs increase your vulnerability to UV damage. Be especially diligent about using sunscreen!

• Examples. Glycolic, lactic, malic, citric and tartaric acids.

• Find them in:

• Face. Kerstin Florian Rejuvenating Ceramide AHA Crème uses AHAs – like lactic acid – to smooth your skin. Plus, it features essential oils and vitamins to hydrate and retain moisture.

• Body. Pevonia Preserve Body Moisturizer contains AHAs to improve dry, rough skin, while vitamins B and E repair damage and replenish moisture.

2. Antioxidants

• What they do. These specialized molecules protect skin from harmful free radicals, produced by sun exposure, pollution, chemicals and other environmental assaults. Free radicals can cause dryness, skin damage, pigment changes and other signs of aging. Some antioxidants are included in moisturizers because of their hydrating effects. Antioxidants are carried via oils and waters, which are common moisturizer bases. They play a role in protecting skin cell membranes.

Because dry skin is more vulnerable to environmental damage, antioxidants are especially important ingredients in moisturizers for dry skin considering their free radical-fighting powers.

• Examples. Soy; grapeseed extract; vitamins A, C, E; coenzyme Q10; flavanoids and polyphenols.

• Find them in:

• Face. Astara Antioxidant Light Moisturizer is recommended for daytime use for normal to dry skin. This cream hydrates and protects with a bevy of antioxidants, including: grapeseed extract; vitamins A, B, C, D and E; green tea; and plant oils.

• Body. iS Clinical Body Complex is chock-full of antioxidants and plant extracts to bolster skin’s barrier for hydrated, smooth skin. It’s even recommended for people with psoriasis, eczema or dermatitis.

3. Emollients

• What they do. Emollients strengthen skin’s protective barrier – especially skin’s lower layers – allowing better moisture retention. They also lubricate. Emollients fill in the spaces between rough, dead cells to achieve a soft, smooth look and feel.

• Examples. Lactic acid, shea butter, petrolatum, lanolin, petrolatum, cyclomethicone, dimethicone copolyol, glyceryl stearates and propylene glycol linoleate, silicone, mineral oil and plant oils.

• Find them in:

• Face. Relastin Ultra Emollient aids in moisture retention for skin’s deeper layers, making it ideal for women with dry, mature, wrinkled skin. In a 30-day clinical trial of women age 45 to 59, 91 percent noticed improved moisture levels. Plus, 87 percent reported that their wrinkles and lines were minimized. This cream features emollient ingredients, such as shea butter, glyceryl stearate and dimethicone.

• Body. H2O Plus Pepperberry Body Cream contains jojoba extract, shea butter and glyceryl stearate to soften and smooth skin without a heavy, greasy feel.

4. Humectants

• What they do. Humectants direct moisture from the air into your skin. But, in order for this to occur, the air’s humidity must be at least 70 percent – humectants can’t draw moisture from the air into your skin if the air doesn’t have enough moisture in it. They also help “attract moisture from the dermis into the epidermis,” according to Heather Brannon, M.D., About’s dermatology guide. Plus, humectants are helpful “for skin damaged by sun and dehydration,” explains dermatologist Charles Lynde, M.D., professor at the University of Toronto Canada. In addition, humectants soften thick, rough, scaly skin often found on feet, knees and elbows.

• Examples. Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycerol, sorbitol, sodium PCA, urea, panthenol and lactic acid.

In particular, hyaluronic acid is a fantastic humectant. It “holds up to 1,000 times its volume in moisture,” says Judith Newman in Allure. Plus, it prevents skin’s moisture from evaporating. This naturally-occurring substance found between skin cells traps in moisture for smooth, firm, plump-looking skin, and reduces the look of wrinkles. We have high levels of hyaluronic acid when we’re young – this is why babies’ skin is soft and moist, Eric Bernstein, M.D., dermatology professor at the University of Pennsylvania, tells Allure. However, hyaluronic acid levels drop with age.

• Find them in:

• Face. Kerstin Florian Hyaluronic Serum combines several potent humectants – like hyaluronic acid, sorbitol, sodium PCA and panthenol – to increase skin’s moisture. It’s even safe for red, irritated, sensitive skin, and is ideal following peels or microdermabrasion treatments.

• Body. B. Kamins Maple Body Lotion is the perfect moisturizer after your bath or shower. It features a medley of moisturizing humectants, including hyaluronic acid, urea and butylene glycol.

5. Occlusives

• What they do. Occlusives work “by slowing the evaporation of water from the surface of the skin,” notes Dr. Brannon. They form a thick barrier film over skin’s outer layers to prevent moisture from evaporating. Occlusives work best when they’re applied to damp skin. Unfortunately, occlusive ingredients can be greasy or sticky. And they can clog pores, contributing to acne. So, unless you have super-dry skin on your face and you rarely break out, you might want to consider these ingredients for use on your body only.

• Examples. Beeswax, caprylic/capric triglycerides, cyclomethicone, hydrogenated castor oil, mineral oil, lanolin, petroleum, petrolatum, silicone, dimethicone and vegetable oils (like avocado or olive oil).

• Find them in:

• Face. Thalgo Extreme Comfort Cream is an ultra-rich formula, designed for dry or irritated skin to maintain moisture levels in elastin and collagen tissues. Occlusives in this cream are mineral oil, petrolatum, hydrogenated castor oil and beeswax.

• Body. Diana B. Peach Frangipani Body Lotion soothes, nourishes and hydrates all skin types with the exotic aroma of peaches and frangipani flowers. It features occlusive ingredients, such as caprylic/capric triglycerides, dimethicone, cyclomethicone and mineral oil.

Picking the right moisturizer doesn’t have to be confusing. Just knowing the important ingredients that promote hydration can help. And, fortunately, the above ingredients can tackle common dry skin issues by helping skin maintain its moisture levels, strengthening skin’s protective barrier and smoothing away roughness.

See also:

Makeup for Dry Skin

Acne Treatment for Dry and Sensitive Skin

Antioxidant Goodies in Dark Chocolate

12 Tips to Combat Winter’s Itchy Skin

Skincare Hits the Slopes: Caring for Skin While Skiing and Snowboarding