1. Retinoids’ efficacy is well-established. Retinoids debuted in the 1970s as an acne treatment. Soon, patients started reporting other benefits: They noticed less wrinkles, less discoloration and brighter, smoother skin. Since then, retinoids have been extensively studied. Rigorous, double-blind research has shown their efficacy time and time again. Richard Glogau, M.D., clinical professor of dermatology at the University of California, tells Good Housekeeping, “These vitamin A derivatives have a better-established track record than any other wrinkle-reduction creams.” Adds John J. Voorhees, M.D., chairman of the dermatology department at the medical school of the University of Michigan, in The New York Times: “To my knowledge, this is the only drug for which there has been crystal-clear demonstration that it works on the molecular level.”


2. Retinoids shrink signs of aging. Retinoids truly rejuvenate and repair the skin. They’re actually considered the gold standard in anti-aging. “I can tell from across the room if someone is using a prescription retinoid--they're that effective," Leslie Baumann, M.D., director of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami, tells Prevention magazine. Retinoids reduce fine lines and wrinkles, diminish roughness and fade brown spots and hyperpigmentation.


3. Retinoids actually build collagen. Collagen gives skin its youthful look by providing structure, firmness and fullness. However, aging and sun exposure deplete collagen, making you look older. Research has shown that retinoids come to the rescue by preventing photo-aging and causing collagen to build. They also normalize the cells, which tend to act erratically as we age, according to California dermatologist Min-Wei Christine Lee, M.D., in The New York Times. As a result, retinoids genuinely reduce fine lines and wrinkles.


4. Retinoids attack acne. Retinoids are excellent exfoliants, revealing clearer — and younger, more radiant — skin. “They sweep away the dead cells that cause whiteheads, blackheads and clogged pores,” dermatologist Heidi A. Waldorf, M.D., tells Allure magazine. Retinoids are also fantastic at reducing oil production and can effectively treat severe acne.


5. Retinoids even treat psoriasis. Because retinoids normalize cell activity — in psoriasis, skin cells grow too quickly — they’re effective at treating psoriasis. In 1997, the topical retinoid tazarotene was approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as a psoriasis treatment. Clinical studies have shown that it works, providing long-term benefits and maintaining results, reports the American Family Physician. Along with tazarotene, a topical corticosteroid is often prescribed, which reduces irritation (a side effect with tazarotene, like other retinoids), enhances tazarotene’s efficacy and decreases corticosteroid’s side effects, according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD).

• Don’t be alarmed if your retinoid cream causes your skin to dry out, peel and redden. In fact, it’s common for skin to look worse before getting better. According to Good Housekeeping, your skin should adapt within six to 12 weeks.


• Apply a small amount. Because retinoids are incredibly powerful and can dry out and irritate the skin, it’s best to apply a pea-sized amount to your entire face. Applying too much of the product won’t get you better skin faster; instead, it’ll create more peeling, dryness and redness.


• Be especially diligent about applying sunscreen. Retinoids make skin more susceptible to sun damage and sunburn. To protect your skin, apply retinoids at night and wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher when heading outdoors.


• Avoid using harsh exfoliants or other potentially irritating products. Piling on other powerful products can intensity your irritation, so you may need to adjust your routine. Tell your dermatologist about all the products you’re currently using. This way, he or she can help you create the best, gentlest routine with your retinoid.


• Avoid layering alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) with retinoids. AHAs and BHAs can make retinoids less effective. On her Web site, Skin Type Solutions, Dr. Baumann suggests using these products at separate times: Use AHAs and BHAs along with sunscreen in the morning, but leave retinoids for night-time.


• Don’t apply immediately after cleansing. Apply the retinoid 20 to 30 minutes after washing your face, making sure skin is completely dry. This helps to minimize stinging and irritation.


• Use a gentle moisturizer regularly. Because retinoids dry out the skin, moisturizer is key in combating dryness and flaking. About’s acne guide, Angela Palmer, recommends using a moisturizer that’s noncomedogenic, fragrance-free and hypoallergenic.


• Hold off on waxing. Because retinoids can make skin extra sensitive and prone to peeling, either stop waxing altogether or postpone it, at least until your skin has acclimated to the retinoid. Dr. Waldorf suggests the following for safe waxing in Allure: Stop using the retinoid two days prior to your wax and two days after; tell the esthetician what you’re doing; and apply 1 percent hydrocortisone cream immediately after the wax to minimize irritation.


• Start slowly and build gradually. According to Prevention, for the first two weeks, use your retinoid every third day; for the next two weeks, use it every other day. For some women, every other day is enough to maintain great results; others can tolerate daily use. You can also start your retinoid in the summer when humidity makes skin less prone to drying out.


• Keep in mind that you won’t see immediate results. You’ll see some improvement around three to six months, though optimal results are more likely in six to 12 months, according to the Harvard Publications Special Report.

Learn everything you need to know about acne-fighting skincare in our Complete Acne Handbook.