Finding your formula and shade

It’s easy to feel overwhelmed in the hair care aisle when you’re faced with so many coloring options. Here’s a rundown of how to select the right formula and shade for you.

• Find the right formula. When choosing the dye, there are a number of things to consider, including how long you’d like your color to last and what kind of ingredients it contains.

  Here are the formulas you can choose from:

• Permanent. For the most dramatic results, choose a permanent hair color kit. Permanent hair color will change the natural pigment of your hair and includes ingredients like hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, which allow the color to penetrate the hair shaft, making the color last. Because it actually removes pigment from your hair, permanent hair color can be damaging to your locks. Although this kind of hair coloring won't wash out, it'll begin to fade over time, typically after four to six weeks, making root touch-ups necessary.

• Demi-permanent. If you’re feeling even the least bit non-committal when it comes to color, consider a demi-permanent dye. These wash out after 12 to 26 washes. Also, demi-permanent dyes will deepen or alter an existing color, but won’t lighten your hair.

• Semi-permanent. Semi-permanent hair color usually lasts for six to 12 shampoos and is much gentler on your hair, because it doesn’t contain ammonia or peroxide. Like demi-permanent dyes, semi-permanent formulas will darken or add color to your existing shade, but they won’t lighten your locks. This is a great option if your hair is fragile or damaged. Also, since the roots won’t be noticeable when the dye washes out, you won’t have to worry about touch-ups.

• Temporary. If you’re incredibly capricious about color, then a temporary dye is your best bet. Since the dye doesn’t penetrate the inside of the hair shaft, it washes out after several shampoos.

Organic and all-natural. Concerned about chemicals? Then consider natural and herbal color rinses. For instance, formulas made from organic henna plant extracts don’t contain synthetic chemicals, preservatives or harsh oxidizing chemicals like ammonia. While these formulas don’t change the actual structure or natural color of your hair, they’ll condition your locks while adding color and shine.
• Selecting your shade. The cardinal rule of dyeing your hair is to use your natural hair color and skin tone to determine your shade. Make sure to keep your new color within one or two shades of your natural hair color to avoid locks that look fake and unflattering.

  Lighter-skinned people tend to look unnatural with darker hair, because it makes them look pale. Similarly, darker-skinned people might have a difficult time pulling off much lighter shades.

  Should you choose warm or cool hues? In general, according to Marie Claire, most people will want to opt for a cool or neutral shade. Especially during the summer when you’re outdoors often, warm hues — including red, strawberry blonde and golden blonde — can turn brassy. When choosing hair dye, always look for words like "ashy" rather than "golden."

  Here’s some shade-specific advice:

  • Blonde. Talk to your stylist or colorist about which shade of blonde will work for you. On virgin hair, the process shouldn’t be a problem. However, if your hair has been permanently tinted, expect multiple sessions to get the right results.

  • Red. Hair holds onto this color very well, but if you’re blonde, you’ll have to go two or three shades darker to get a natural, deep shade. This process for blondes is also hard to reverse.

  • Brown. This hair color is one of the safest and simplest to accomplish for most people. Plus, mixing varying shades with highlights can result in a variety of unique looks.

  • Black. Because black covers all hair types effectively, it’s another easy color. However, make sure to take your skin tone into consideration as black hair can be a stark contrast on pale skin.

Ready, set, color

Not so fast! Even though you’re eager to apply the dye and see your new tresses, slow down and ensure great results with these essential hair dyeing do’s and don’ts.

• Pre-color prep

  • Do: Choose carefully. Don’t just look at the model on the box and expect the same results. Depending on your natural hair color and how processed your hair is, individual results usually vary. Look at the detailed color information — including color swatches — on the side of the box.

    If you’re looking for a dramatic change, such as sun-kissed highlights or multiple colors, drop the box and see a professional stylist.

  • Do: Buy extra. If your hair is long or thick, buy two boxes of hair dye — just in case. Running out halfway through your dye job can be a hair-raising experience.

  • Do: A patch test. Once you’ve chosen your shade, you’ll want to do a patch test to make sure the dye doesn’t cause an unpleasant reaction. Apply the dye to a small patch of skin, such as your arm, and wait 24 hours. If you have sensitive skin, test the dye on an area that’s more prone to sensitivity such as behind the ear.

    Additionally, it’s a good idea to test the color on a small strand of hair on the underside of your hair before dyeing your entire head.

  • Don’t: Trust the tools. Marie Claire notes that the tools that typically come with hair dye kits are very flimsy. Instead, pick up individual tools at a beauty supply store. You’ll need a pair of gloves, a bowl and a brush.

  • Don’t: Stain your skin. It’s crucial that you separate your hair into smaller sections so you can distribute the color evenly, down to the roots. To avoid staining your skin, use a cotton ball to rub Vaseline on the skin surrounding your hairline. If you’re having trouble covering your hair evenly, ask a friend to apply the color to hard-to-reach parts. You’ll also want to have old clothes and towels available to cover your work area and prevent the dye from staining.

• Managing mishaps

  • Do: Read the directions. Before taking the plunge, read the directions several times to ensure that you understand how the particular brand works and how long you should leave the dye on. This is an easy way to avoid a major mishap.

  • Do: Be careful with curls. According to Marie Claire, curly hair is much more delicate than other hair types: "Because it's naturally dry and porous, it absorbs color faster and is more susceptible to damage than straight strands." Marie Claire suggests diluting the dye slightly, "replacing a quarter of the activator with distilled water."

  • Don’t: Re-dye a disaster. In the event of a hair-coloring catastrophe, don’t run out and buy a second box of dye to remedy the situation. It’s tough to predict how the two colors will interact, making it likely that the second dye job could turn out even worse than the first. You could end up with hues of green or orange — shades that can result from performing too many chemistry experiments on your hair. Instead, bring the box that lists the ingredients to a professional stylist who can correct the mishap.

  • Don’t: Forgo professional help. If you want to ensure optimal results, consult a professional colorist who is familiar with your hair and the style you’re seeking. And while you’re at it, learn as much as you can about the different kinds of dyes and the chemicals they contain. Doing so could help you avoid an at-home dyeing disaster.

• Damage control

  • Do: Buy special products. Keep in mind that dyed hair is considered damaged hair and will need to be treated with great care. Purchase a shampoo and conditioner made specifically for color-treated hair, such as Oscar Blandi Shampoo alla Crema Shampoo for Chemically Treated Hair and Oscar Blandi Balsamo alla Crema Conditioner for Chemically Treated Hair. Also, incorporate a weekly deep conditioner into your routine to help hydrate and restore damage to chemically processed hair.

  • Do: Go easy on your ends. When you re-dye your roots, be sure to go easy on your ends — which are most susceptible to damage and breakage. Julyne Derrick of About recommends covering your ends with a conditioner; then before rinsing out the color, apply the dye over your conditioned ends. This will refresh the color while minimizing damage.

  • Don’t: Wash your hair on the day of your dye. The natural oils in your hair offer built-in protection against potentially damaging chemical processes. Because washing your hair temporarily removes these oils, avoid shampooing for at least one day prior to your coloring.

  • Don’t: Over-process. Addicted to hair dyes? A common obstacle to avoid is over-processing your hair. This happens when too many permanent colors are applied to your locks. If you’re constantly changing colors, visit a local salon for professional deep conditioning treatments so you don’t damage your hair any further.

And finally, have fun! A new hair color is a great way to update your look, and doing it yourself is a nice budget-friendly option. Just remember to follow these important guidelines and don’t hesitate to see a professional to get a dramatic look or fix a dyeing disaster.

See also:

6 Hair-Saving Tips for Damaged Locks

10 Simple Secrets to Healthy Hair

Simple Solutions for Split Ends