What is it?

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that is extracted from white willow bark. In addition to treating acne, it can help a variety of skin concerns, including sun damage and psoriasis.

How it works

Though it doesn’t have an effect on sebum production or P. acnes bacteria, in the battle against blemishes, salicylic acid is a multi-tasking maven. Here are four ways that this ingredient clears acne and improves skin. It:

1. Absorbs other products. When used in combination with other treatments, salicylic acid enhances the absorption of active ingredients into the skin.
2. Clears pores. This mild acid breaks down blackheads and whiteheads by peeling the top layer of skin and clearing blocked pores.
3. Exfoliates and cleanses. Salicylic acid is a keratolytic agent, which means that it has both exfoliating and antiseptic properties. It also assists in shedding dead skin cells that can cause acne when mixed with dirt and sebum.

4. Combats dryness. Salicylic acid softens keratin, a skin-forming protein and helps break down dry skin.

Where to find it

Salicylic acid is found in a variety of products, including cleansers, moisturizers, serums, eye creams, hand and body lotions, foot creams and exfoliants. When choosing a product, also consider the strength of salicylic acid.

• Mild to moderate acne. To combat the occasional blemish or a persistent patch of pimples, start your treatment with an over-the-counter product. Cleansers, toners, moisturizers and spot treatments containing salicylic acid in strengths of 0.5 percent to 2 percent are widely available and don’t require a prescription.
• Severe acne. For especially stubborn acne, a dermatologist may prescribe stronger formulas, as well as topical treatments that combine salicylic acid with other ingredients. Usually, these aren't designed for daily use. Be especially careful to follow your dermatologist's instructions when using prescription-strength treatments, as they can cause chemical burns if left on the skin for too long.

• Sensitive skin. Individuals with sensitive skin should start with a lower strength of salicylic acid and slowly increase the concentration as needed. If your skin becomes excessively dry or irritated after daily use, use the product every other day or every few days to minimize side effects.

Product picks

Here are several products with salicylic acid you may be interested in:

• SensiClear 60 Day Deluxe Acne System is a revolutionary acne treatment. The patented ingredient Retextra is combined with salicylic acid to heal blemishes while helping to retexture the skin's surface. This three-part system contains a purifying cleanser, balancing toner and acne treatment lotion, which can be applied to the entire face.

• Philosophy Microdelivery Peel, which contains salicylic acid, lactic acid and vitamin C, helps to clear pores and exfoliate the skin.

• DDF Salicylic Wash contains 2 percent salicylic acid to reduce oil and prevent blemishes.

• Neutrogena Advanced Solutions Acne Mark Fading Peel helps reduce and prevent blemishes while fading post-acne discoloration.

What to expect

Typical results. With regular use of salicylic acid products, you can expect a reduction in active and new blemishes. Because the acne-banishing effects of salicylic acid are cumulative, use these products consistently for the most benefit.

Interactions. Using other products in conjunction with salicylic acid (or other acne-fighting treatments) may increase skin sensitivity. Also, avoid using abrasive facial cleansers, alcohol-based products or other topical acne treatments. Because these products increase sun sensitivity, be especially diligent about using sunscreen.

Sensitive skin. Because salicylic acid clears acne without over-drying, most people, including individuals with dry or sensitive skin, can use it. If you’ve experienced uncomfortable redness or drying from other acne-fighting ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, you’ll most likely be able to use salicylic acid without any problem.

If dryness does occur, invest in an oil-free moisturizer. Allow the salicylic acid product to absorb completely into the skin before applying moisturizer. If you still notice dryness or irritation, remember to try a lower concentration or reduce use to once a day or every other day.

Who should avoid it

• Oily skin. Individuals with oily skin may find that excess sebum production leads to shiny skin and can also clog pores, leading to breakouts. However, because salicylic acid has no effect on sebum, you might need to use additional treatments that absorb oil and reduce shine.

• Allergies. Because the chemical composition of salicylic acid is very similar to aspirin, people who are allergic to aspirin should avoid salicylic acid.

• Other medical concerns. Pregnant women and anyone with specific medical concerns should see a doctor before starting any acne treatment. If you have rosacea, consult a dermatologist before trying salicylic acid, because it can actually worsen your condition.

Finally, continue using salicylic acid even after your skin has cleared up. Acne could easily return after treatment is discontinued.

See also:

Top 10 Acne Articles

A Beauty Routine to Avoid and Conceal Acne

Acne Products: Understanding the Ingredients

Antioxidants: Power Plants of Youthful Skin

How to Banish Blackheads