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Tuesday, May 19, 2009
by Skincare-news.com team
You’ve probably seen mineral makeup in one of its many forms, including powder, blush and eye shadow. Mineral beauty products are typically made from crushed minerals, such as mica, iron oxide, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Supporters of mineral foundations love the light-as-silk texture and airbrushed finish, a far cry from heavy liquid or cream foundations. Those with sensitive skin, acne or rosacea are drawn to claims that it’s safer and less irritating than traditional products. And almost everyone is tempted by the promise that mineral makeup is "natural" and "pure." But does mineral makeup live up to its reputation, and is it really good for your skin? Find out.

Experts sound off

Many companies promoting mineral makeup claim that their products are actually beneficial for your skin. However, some experts disagree. In USA Today, dermatologist Leslie Baumann, M.D., notes that, "It is mainly marketing hype. The minerals in it have never been shown to be beneficial for your skin.”

In fact, using these minerals isn’t a new practice. “Mineral makeup is just a genius marketing plan – a new way of selling women the same ingredients that technically have been in makeup for years,” dermatologic and pharmaceutical chemist Ben Kaminsky tells WebMD.

However, according to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), dermatologists do recommend mineral makeup to patients with rosacea. Also, dermatologist Francesca Fusco, M.D., tells WebMD that mineral makeup is noncomedogenic and, unlike some traditional products, it won’t aggravate acne or cause flare-ups.

The problem with natural and pure

Companies also claim that mineral makeup is “natural” or “pure,” and won’t irritate the skin. But how accurate are these statements? Here’s the scoop:

  • “Natural.” Unfortunately, powders labeled “natural” can still have potential irritants. For one, there’s no unifying definition of natural; unlike with food products, the government doesn’t control the labeling of skincare products, which means the definition can vary from company to company. Also, even if ingredients are natural (e.g., plant extracts), they can still irritate the skin and cause allergic reactions.

  • “Pure.” Finding a uniform definition for “pure” isn’t easy, either. Just like the term “natural,” companies can call just about any mineral formula “pure,” because there are no regulations.

    Pure doesn’t necessarily mean free from chemicals or preservatives. If the product contains some percentage of minerals, the company can market it as being purer than other makeup. But companies may still add synthetic fillers, dyes or fragrance to their products and claim purity. If you’re trying mineral makeup because traditional products irritate your skin, make sure that the product you’re considering doesn’t contain dyes and fragrances.

Potentially irritating ingredients

Instead of relying on labels like natural and pure to indicate a non-irritating formula, review the individual ingredients. Mineral makeup might include the below ingredients, which can potentially irritate the skin and cause allergic reactions. These can be natural (from plants or fruits) or chemicals:

  • Bismuth oxychloride (adds a pearlescent finish and reflects light)
  • Talc (gives powder a satiny feel)
  • Mica (adds glow to the skin; some dermatologists and cosmetic surgeons do recommend mineral makeup with mica to patients)

Concerns about nanoparticles

To achieve the appropriate texture, most minerals are crushed to microscopic size, often called nanoparticles. What many people don’t realize is that minerals have different properties when they’re reduced to this small size. Consequently, they can affect skin differently than normal-sized particles.

On his Yahoo! Health blog, wellness expert Andrew Weil, M.D., writes that titanium dioxide in its micronized form “may prompt formation of free radicals that could damage cells.”

Also, “Minerals like zinc and titanium are safe when applied to healthy skin but in a micronized nanoparticle form, there remains a concern, particularly when applied to damaged skin, or when inhaled,” Jane Houlihan, research director of The Environmental Working Group, tells WebMD.

Sunscreen still required

All mineral foundations offer some measure of sun protection, typically SPF 15 or higher. However, don’t skip your daily sunscreen application, because mineral makeup alone doesn’t provide enough protection.

Find a sunscreen to work in tandem with mineral makeup, such as (http://www.skinstore.com/p-539-skinceuticals-physical-uv-defense-spf-30.aspx) SkinCeuticals Physical UV Defense SPF 30. In addition to defending against UV rays, this product absorbs quickly and provides a perfect base for mineral powder.

Mineral makeup’s benefits

Mineral makeup can still offer various advantages, including:

  • It looks natural. Compared to thick, creamy formulas, mineral makeup tends to appear more natural, without looking like you’ve bathed in beauty products.
  • It won’t clog pores. It’s noncomedogenic, so it shouldn’t aggravate acne.

  • It conceals redness. For those with skin concerns such as acne and rosacea, mineral formulas often have excellent coverage, hiding redness and blemishes.

  • It smoothes on easily. The ease of application is also appealing to all skin types.

  • When buying mineral makeup, consider your skin type and tone. For instance, individuals with dry complexions might find that mineral powders accentuate dryness, lines and wrinkles. Women with darker skin tones might struggle to find formulas that don’t appear ashy or gray on their complexions.

Product picks

If you’re interested in mineral beauty products, you have tons of options, with formulas for the face, eyes and cheeks.

The bottom line

Whether mineral makeup is superior to traditional cosmetics is debatable. It does have certain pros that people might enjoy like its light texture and natural-looking coverage. Rather than going by loosely defined terms like “natural” and “pure,” carefully review each product’s ingredients labels. And watch for signs of irritation just as you would with any new product.

See also:

Does Mineral Makeup Provide Enough Sun Protection?

A Makeup Manual for Sensitive Skin

A Beauty Routine to Avoid and Conceal Acne

Chemical Peels: 8 Considerations

Frugal Facials: Money-Saving Tips

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Colorescience Retractable Blusher Brush
"This loose mineral blush gives the face a natural looking glow. It’s the most believable cheek color ever. "
Stila Eye Shadow Pan
"Inspire your inner artist and create a palette of color with Stila's award-winning eye shadows."
bareMinerals SPF 15 Foundation
"Made with pure, crushed minerals from the earth, bareMinerals SPF 15 Foundation looks like a powder, feels like a cream and buffs on like silk, giving skin a natural luminosity."
Skindinavia Mineral Makeup Finish
"This extremely lightweight Mineral Makeup Finish contains a blend of six moisturizers which hydrate the surface to control any type of drying or powdery look."
bareMinerals Flawless Application Face Brush
"The natural, soft-tapered bristles of this brush are designed to provide light to medium coverage for a broad range of easy, professional-looking applications."

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