What is it?
This antioxidant is one of the most effective topical agents against wrinkles, fines lines and photodamage caused by sun exposure. Vitamin C, or L-ascorbic acid, is vital for producing collagen, correcting pigmentation problems and reducing free radicals.
Free radicals are natural by-products that can be triggered by pollutants, sunlight, stress, smoking and excessive alcohol consumption. Why are they dangerous? If left untreated, free radicals damage surrounding healthy cells, break down collagen, accelerate aging and even contribute to skin cancer.
Benefits
Vitamin C offers a multitude of skin benefits, preventing and even reversing damage.
- Collagen production. According to research, vitamin C can boost collagen production. In one study, participants applied a vitamin C product to one side of the face and a placebo gel on the other side for 12 weeks, reports Life Extension magazine. Researchers measured the participants’ pigmentation, wrinkles and hydration levels at the beginning of the study and every four weeks throughout. Vitamin C-treated areas of skin had “statistically significant” improvements over the placebo-treated areas. In particular, biopsies revealed that new collagen production rose. This is important because collagen can reduce the look of wrinkles and scars.
- Pigmentation reduction. A similar study examined topical vitamin C and photodamage, again using vitamin C on one side of the face and placebo gel on the other for three months, according to Life Extension. Computer imaging software measured the results. Areas treated with vitamin C showed a 71 percent improvement in photodamage.
- Free radical defense. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that fights harmful free radicals. However, it’s important to note that vitamin C also “can actually produce free radicals,” cautions dermatologist Leslie Baumann, M.D., in Allure. The reason? When a vitamin C product comes in contact with light or heat, oxidation changes the product’s consistency. And free radicals can result. The solution? Vitamin C is often combined with other antioxidants, like vitamin E or ferulic acid, to fight free radicals. This way, the other antioxidants can “counteract this effect,” Dr. Baumann explains.
Different formulations
Which forms of vitamin C are most stable and beneficial? Cosmetic dermatologist and dermasurgeon Nelson Lee Novick, M.D., weighs in.
- L-ascorbic acid. “L-ascorbic acid, which is water-soluble and considered the most active form of the vitamin, is notoriously unstable in topical preparations and stability has only been achieved, to my knowledge, in a few patented formulations,” says Dr. Novick.
- Ascorbyl palmitate. In contrast, “Fat-soluble vitamin C (or ascorbyl palmitate) is more stable. It also tends to be somewhat less irritating. The comparative efficacy of the water and fat soluble forms in topical preparations remains something of a gray area,” he says. Some skincare companies believe that fat-soluble vitamin C offers better free radical protection and encourages renewal of vitamin E levels.
Skincare experts are continuously conducting research to determine the best vitamin C formulas. Some of these new formulas have shown greater stability and “appear to be more powerful boosters of collagen synthesis,” according to G. Todorov, Ph.D., of Smart Skin Care. Dr. Todorov cites tetrasubstituted lipophilic ascorbates as one of these potentially powerful newcomers. However, he notes, only a few products contain these new compounds. But this might change in the future.
You'll find it in
Although oral vitamin C is important for your health, the body eventually flushes it out. So applying topical vitamin C is vital for reaping maximum skincare benefits.
- Oral. You can take vitamin C as a separate supplement or multi-vitamin. How much do you need? It depends on age, gender and other conditions. However, the Linus Pauling Institute advises no more than 2,000 milligrams a day for adults. Always ask your doctor before taking any vitamins or supplements. Food sources of vitamin C include: bright citrus fruits (like oranges and grapefruits), berries, peppers, broccoli and tomatoes.
- Topical. You’ll find vitamin C in a bevy of skincare products, including anti-aging formulas, cleansers, serums and moisturizers. Some helpful hints when buying vitamin C skincare:
- Select products with 10 percent or more vitamin C. Look for L-ascorbic acid as an ingredient on the label, suggests iVillage.
- Check expiration dates and packaging. Make sure your product comes “in an airtight brown glass bottle or metal tube,” notes iVillage.
- Re-cap the container tightly after use and store it in a dark, cool place. Remember, vitamin C breaks down and oxidizes when it hits air and light.
- Toss the product if it’s turned yellow or brown. This means it has oxidized, making the product ineffective or even harmful. Oxidized vitamin C might increase free radical development, notes Dr. Todorov.
Vitamin C products
Give your skin a vitamin C boost with these skincare options:
What to expect
Not all vitamin C products are created equal; many products on the market contain low concentrations of vitamin C and don't even penetrate the skin. Consequently, you might not get the dramatic results you want.
Some irritation or redness may occur when you first start using topical vitamin C products. If this is the case, use a smaller amount and apply them less frequently. If irritation or redness worsens, stop using the product and see your dermatologist.
Also, make sure you give the product enough time to work, particularly if you have a lot of sun damage. You may need three to six months before seeing improvement, notes dermatologist Jeanine Downie, M.D., in Allure.
Who should avoid it
According to Dr. Novick, “Some of the water soluble vitamin C products can be slightly irritating, especially to dry or sensitive skin.” However, each person’s skin responds differently. Dr. Todorov writes that magnesium ascorbyl phosphate may be a safer option over vitamin C if you have sensitive skin.
See also:
Choosing an Acne Treatment System
Preventing and Treating Age Spots
Simple Steps to a Bronzed Complexion
Maintain Fabulous Skin on Your Flight
How to Complete Your Skin Care Routine