Eye shadow

Where once chiefly formulated as powder, today’s eye shadows come in a variety of formulas, including powder, cream and gel, and more colors than a box of crayons.

• Powder. For many women, the ease of powder shadow is still paramount. With sophisticated textures that look radiant on all skin tones, powder eye shadow is a beauty staple in every makeup kit. Finishes can be shimmery or matte, and some powder eye shadows are so deeply pigmented they can also be used as eyeliner.
• Cream. These shadows offer a dewy, shimmery finish. Easy to apply, they're great for outdoor activities or an intense pop of color. To extend the life of cream eye shadow (which has a tendency to smudge or smear, especially in hot weather or if the eyelids are oily), use an eye shadow base such as Skindinavia Face And Eye Makeup Primer. Alternately, many experts recommend dusting the eyelids with loose powder before applying cream shadow or even using concealer.

Color me up. For a natural look keep eye shadow colors in the same family of tones, be they blues, greens, plums, browns or nudes. For a more intense look, or a night out on the town, mix it up a bit and accent eyes with a trio of colors; for example, blue, navy and a shot of bronze.

Hair hues. To create a natural look, opt for a no-fail neutral eye shadow that complements your hair and skin tone. For light hair, reach for cream or taupe; brunettes can deepen the color to an intense mocha or chocolate brown. Pick one neutral shadow and blend it all over your eyelid and then if you wish, accent with a deeper shade of the same color in the crease. Because neutral color will be subtle, consider a shadow with a shimmery finish to add a bit of zing to this color palette.

Eye language. Eye shape and size should also be taken into consideration when picking colors. Small or deep-set eyes will look brighter and more open with lighter shadows such as Stila Kitten or Oasis. Apply shadow over the upper eyelid and the brow bone. For larger or protruding eyes, try a deeper color and apply to the lid: Stila Twig or Barefoot Contessa. Finally, to really make your eye color sing, choose a contrasting color. For brown eyes, try navy or plum. Blue eyes — green or brown. Green eyes — plum or granite.

Put it on. A classic eye shadow look involves three colors — base, crease and highlighter. First, apply the light shadow all over the eyelid; this is the base shadow. Then, add the medium shade to the crease and outer corner. And to finish, add a highlighter shadow to the brow bone. For added drama, smudge a deep, dark shadow along the lash line. But don't feel bound to this method. Experiment and customize your look. Try different colors along different parts of your eye, like the brow bone, lid and lash line, and then blend well using fingers, makeup brushes or sponges so that one color flows seamlessly into the next.

Line up

Like eye shadow, eyeliners have come a long way since the days of waxy pencils; today, you can line your eyes with pencils, shadow, gel, cream and liquid eyeliner, each offering a distinctly different look.

• Cream. One of the newest, and most popular, eyeliners on the market is cream eyeliner. Deeply pigmented and applied with a small, flat eyeliner brush, cream liners last forever, look very natural and come in a variety of gorgeous colors. For an extra precise line, use Stila Brush #4 Precision Eyeliner with DuWop Smoke Olive Branch.
• Liquid. As liquid eyeliner is the most dramatic option, it's great for special occasions or date night. Blinc Kiss Me Eyeliner Black is a smooth 'cosmetic paint' that will line your eyes with waterproof color. For the smoothest line, gently tug at the outer corner of they eyelid to keep the lid steady and taut. Then, draw the eyeliner in a thin line next to the lashes, ideally in one smooth stroke. Soften the look or fix any mistakes by blending the line with a cotton swab dipped in eye makeup remover. Eye shadow with liquid eyeliner is optional, but not necessary.
• Pencil. These are the old standby — easy to apply, great for traveling, dozens of colors and practically goof-proof. For the smoothest line, always keep the pencil sharp, and never share liner pencils — bacteria love to travel that way.
• Gel. These eyeliners are a hybrid between cream and pencil. They have the intensity of cream, with the blendability of a pencil. Try Stila Smudge Pots for smooth, fade-proof application.

Magic with mascara

A tube of mascara is a tube of mascara, right? Not really. Mascara formulas are designed to address the multitude of concerns women have about their lashes and picking the right formula for you will make all the difference.

• Lengthening mascaras have special mascara wands — the bristles, 'bunched' or packed close together, grab onto lashes and spread mascara onto each lash. Often, these types of mascaras are made with special formulas as well, which actually build up the density of lashes with each coat.
• Thickening mascaras may also feature 'bunched' mascara wands, but the real difference is in the formula. To make lashes appear thicker, this type of mascara is often made with wax and silicone, which stick to lashes and make them look thicker. These formulas are also dark and richly pigmented, further creating a thick appearance. Waterproof mascaras resist smudging, streaking or running, however; they can cause dry lashes and must be removed with a specialized eye makeup remover, such as L’Occitane Immortelle Eye Make-Up Remover.
• Curling mascaras promote a natural curl in the lash with special polymers.

Choose your color. Just as one formula doesn’t fit all women — neither does one color. While it’s true that almost all women will look great in classic black, don’t be afraid to try other shades. For women with extremely pale skin and light hair, brown mascara is a great alternative to stark black, while women of color (or anyone with deeper skin tones) should consider navy, forest green or black-brown. Two great basics everyone should have in their beauty bag include Blinc Kiss Me Mascara Brown, a rich, deep shade of chocolate brown and Stila Major Major Lash Mascara Black, a divine, inky black.

Mastering mascara. To get the most out of your mascara, never pump the wand repeatedly into the mascara tube. Not only does this not coat the bristles with more mascara, it introduces air into the wand, which will dry out the product and potentially invite a bacterial infestation. Instead, gently swirl the wand around the inside of the tube in a circular motion to pick up product, and always recap tightly after use. Finally, mascara is a very sensitive product (probably one of the most sensitive) and has a very short shelf life. Never share mascara and replace every 3-4 months with a fresh tube.

See also:

Powder: The Finishing Touch

How to Apply Lipstick for a Perfect Pout

Eyebrow and Eyelash Tinting: Dangerous Dyes?