What is it?

A chemical peel is an intense skin treatment administered by either an esthetician or a dermatologist that exfoliates away the top layer of skin. Typically involving the application of solutions made with glycolic acid, trichloroacetic acid, salicylic, lactic or carbolic acid (or Jessner’s Solution, which is a combination of resorcinol, lactic and salicylic acid), chemical peels vary in strength and intensity and also have a variety of side effects. After initial application, the skin begins to flake or 'peel' off, leaving behind a new layer of skin that is smoother, with refined texture and clarity, and improved tone. This usually occurs within one to 14 days, depending on the intensity of the peel.

Post-peel, skin will need extra TLC. Thick moisturizer must be used on a daily basis to protect fragile skin as it regenerates and a strong sunblock is absolutely essential to shelter skin from further environmental damage.

How does it work?

Chemical peels are used to treat all sorts of skin concerns, from minor to major. As techniques are refined and side effects minimized, many people (both men and women) elect to undergo a peel simply to refresh and brighten dull or tired skin. Peels are also effective for treating more serious skin issues such as hyper and hypo-pigmentation, sun spots and freckling, softening fine lines around the eyes and mouth and to reduce the appearance of scars.

As effective as they are, chemicals peels are not suited for all skin types or conditions. Extremely acneic, dry or sensitive skin will want to avoid chemical peels and instead opt for alternative treatments. Mild breakouts that occur infrequently or as a result of increased hormonal activity may reap benefits from superficial peels, but always consult with a dermatologist before undergoing this type of treatment.

Other conditions that a chemical peel will not treat include sagging skin, bulges under the skin and severe wrinkles.

Side effects

As with any medical procedure, there are risks associated with a chemical peel. Extreme flaking, scales and redness are typical side effects. Additionally, as the skin heals, it can become infected, which may require medical treatment.

Other side effects can include temporary and permanent pigment changes in the skin, keloid scars or the development of cold sores. In order to mitigate risks, and to help prepare the skin for a peel, your physician may recommend that you stop taking certain medications and start a skincare regimen that includes glycolic or other alpha-hydroxy acids to prepare the skin for the peel.

Additionally, chemical peels should be avoided by anyone with heart conditions or pregnant or lactating women, as well as anyone with a history of medical problems such as eczema, lupus, psoriasis or rosacea or those who bruise easily, as well as individuals taking Accutane or other oral drugs for acne or those who use Retin-A at night for wrinkles.

What’s the appeal?

Aside from an immediate difference in the appearance and texture of the skin, there are plenty of good reasons to choose a chemical peel. Chemical peels are highly effective in a short amount of time and are convenient; they can be performed either by an esthetician or at the doctor’s office. Additionally, the down time and side effects of a peel are minimal, especially when compared to in-patient cosmetic surgeries. Finally, a chemical peel will be tailored to your particular skin type and needs. Follow-up regimens and care are designed specifically for each client, as is a treatment system to maintain the results of the peel for as long as possible.