What type of dye should you use?

Permanent. Permanent hair color will change the natural pigment of your hair. It contains ingredients like hydrogen peroxide and ammonia that allow the color to penetrate the hair shaft, making it a longer-lasting product. Because it actually removes pigment from your hair, permanent hair color can be damaging to your locks. Although this kind of hair coloring won't wash out, it'll begin to fade over time, typically after four to six weeks, making root touch-ups necessary.

Semi-permanent. Semi-permanent hair color usually lasts for six to 12 shampoos and is much gentler on your hair, because it doesn’t contain ammonia or peroxide. Semi-permanent dyes will darken or add color to your existing shade, but they won’t lighten your hair. This is a good option if your hair is fragile and damaged. Also, since the roots won’t be noticeable when the dye washes out, you won’t have to worry about touch-ups.

Demi-permanent. These dyes are similar to semi-permanent formulas but last longer, usually washing out after 12 to 26 washes. Like semi-permanent, these dyes will deepen or alter an existing color, but won’t lighten your hair.

Temporary. If you’re looking for a change but aren’t ready for a permanent commitment, a temporary dye is your best option. These last just a few shampoos. Since the dye doesn’t penetrate the inside of the hair shaft, it’s washed right out.

A healthier route. If you’re concerned about chemicals, natural and herbal color rinses are available. Organic and henna plant extracts contain no synthetic chemicals, preservatives or harsh oxidizing chemicals like ammonia. While these don’t change the actual structure or natural color of your hair, they will condition your locks while adding color and shine.

Selecting your shade. The cardinal rule of dyeing your hair: use your natural hair color and skin tone as the basis for choosing your color. Always keep your new color within one or two shades of your natural hair color to avoid locks that look fake and unflattering.

Lighter-skinned people tend to look unnatural with darker hair, giving them a pale complexion. Similarly, darker-skinned people might have a difficult time pulling off much lighter shades.

Warm or cool hues? In general, according to Marie Claire, most people will want to opt for a cool or neutral shade. Especially during the summer when you’re outdoors often, warm hues can easily turn brassy. When choosing hair dye, look for words like "ashy" rather than "golden."

Tips for specific hair colors

Blonde. Talk to your stylist or colorist about which shade will work for you. On virgin hair, the process shouldn’t be a problem but if you have hair that’s been permanently tinted, expect multiple sessions to get the right results.

Red. Hair holds onto this color very well, but if you’re blond, you’ll have to go two or three shades darker to get a natural, deep shade. This process for blonds is also hard to reverse.

Brown. This hair color is one of the safest and simplest to accomplish for most people. Mixing varying shades with highlights can result in a variety of unique looks.

Black. Because black covers all hair types effectively, it’s another easy color. However, make sure you take your skin tone into consideration: Black hair can be a stark contrast on pale skin.

Making over your mane

Do it yourself. If you’re looking for a subtle, all-over color change, box dyes are a cheap and easy solution. Carefully review the side of the box instead of expecting your hair to resemble the same shade as the cover. Depending on your natural hair color and how processed your hair is, your actual result will usually differ. If you’re looking for a more drastic change, such as sun-kissed highlights or multiple colors, it’s recommended that you let a professional take care of your hair.

Prep time. Once you’ve chosen your shade, you’ll want to do a patch test to make sure the dye doesn’t cause an unpleasant reaction. Apply the dye to a small patch of skin, such as your arm, and wait 24 hours to be safe.

If you tend toward sensitive skin, test the dye on an area that’s more prone to sensitivity such as behind the ear — just because the dye doesn’t cause a reaction on your arm doesn’t ensure that the delicate skin of the face and scalp won’t react. Additionally, try testing a small strand on the underside of your hair before dyeing your entire head.

Ready your tools. Marie Claire mentions that the tools that typically come with hair dye kits are very flimsy, so it's a good idea to pick up individual tools at a beauty supply store. You’ll need a pair of gloves, a bowl to mix the dye in and a brush. You’ll also want to have old clothes and towels available to cover your work area and prevent the dye from staining.

If your hair is long or thick, buy two boxes of hair dye, even if you aren’t certain you’ll use both. Running out halfway through your dye job can be a hair-raising experience. Finally, before taking the plunge, read the directions several times to make sure you understand how the particular brand works and how long you should leave the dye on.

Even application. It’s crucial that you separate your hair into smaller portions so you can distribute the color evenly, down to the roots. To avoid staining your skin, use a cotton ball to rub Vaseline on the skin surrounding your hairline. If you’re having trouble covering your hair evenly, ask a friend to help you apply color to hard-to-reach parts.

Coloring mishaps. If you have a hair coloring disaster, don’t run out and buy a second box of dye; it’s hard to know how the two colors will react with each other, making it likely that the second at-home coloring job could turn out even worse than the first. For instance, you could end up with hues of green or orange, shades that can result from performing too many chemistry experiments on your hair. Instead, bring the box that lists the ingredients to a professional so the stylist can correct the mishap.

Careful with curls. According to Marie Claire, curly hair is much more delicate than other hair types: "Because it's naturally dry and porous, it absorbs color faster and is more susceptible to damage than straight strands." Marie Claire suggests diluting the dye slightly, "replacing a quarter of the activator with distilled water."

Professional solutions. If you want to ensure the best results, consult with a professional colorist who'll be familiar with your hair and the style you’re seeking. However, even though you’re seeing a professional, it can’t hurt to learn the different kinds of dyes and the chemicals they contain.

After-care. Keep in mind that dyed hair is considered damaged and will need to be treated with great care. Purchase a shampoo and conditioner made specifically for color-treated hair, such as Oscar Blandi Shampoo alla Crema Shampoo for Chemically Treated Hairand Oscar Blandi Balsamo alla Crema Conditioner for Chemically Treated Hair. Incorporate a weekly deep conditioner into your routine, to help hydrate and restore damage to chemically processed hair.

Addicted to hair dyes? One obstacle to avoid is over-processing your hair. This happens when too many permanent colors are applied to your locks. If you’re constantly changing colors, visit a local salon for professional deep-conditioning treatments so you don’t damage your hair any further.

See also:

The Route to Younger Hair

Combating Puffiness and Under-Eye Circles