Characteristics of curls

Wondering why you have a thick cap of curls? Before you dive into caring for your curls, it’s best to understand what your hair’s all about.

• Why hair curls. According to Ask magazine, genetics plays a role — people with curly-haired parents are likely to have curly hair as well. The shape of the follicles through which hair grows also affects hair’s texture. Round follicles produce straight hair, while flat follicles lead to curly hair. In addition, hair is composed of keratin protein, which contains sulfur. Ask explains that sulfur atoms bond, "causing the hair to bend. The more sulfur bonds in your hair, the curlier it is."
• Dryness and damage. Certain properties are often found in curly hair, notes Katie Summers of TheHairStyler. Curly hair is typically dry rather than oily, so it’s more prone to damage like splitting or breaking. The outer covering of hair — called the cuticle — tends to be rough in curly-haired people. Therefore, it’s more difficult for light to reflect off curly hair, which is less shiny than straight hair, writes Helen Foster in The Beauty Book.
• Frizz. Curls are often hard to control and super-frizzy. Frizziness and humidity go hand-in-hand, "because the moisture in the air moves into the hair and expands the hair shaft," according to iVillage.

Cleansing and conditioning

Daily shampooing can strip away the oils needed to maintain curl health. So, you might want to wash curly hair once or twice a week. Choose a shampoo and conditioner designed to moisturize and control your curls. Adding moisture to fill up hair leaves less room for frizzies.

• Shampoo. Lather up with Alterna Life Solutions Curls Shampoo to strengthen hair, stop frizz and promote bouncy curls. Massage shampoo into a wet scalp, allowing the lather to slide down your strands. Rinse with warm water — hot water’s too drying.
• Conditioner. Give your curls additional moisture and damage protection with Alterna Life Solutions Curls Conditioner. To avoid weighing hair down, apply conditioner from the middle of your hair to the bottom ends. If you suffer from dry, dull, damaged hair, it’s especially important to condition the ends, and rinse well.
• Oil treatments. For ultra-dry or damaged hair, replace your scalp’s moisture and natural oils with the botanical ingredients found in an oil treatment. Check out Philip B Rejuvenating Oil for Dry or Damaged Hair.

Another approach to curl care — the Curly Girl method advocated by expert hairstylist Lorraine Massey — involves no shampooing, just conditioning and adding oil. Why do Curly Girl followers skip the shampoo? Many shampoos contain strong detergents like sodium lauryl sulfate that overdry curls and pave the way for frizz.

Smart styling

Careful styling is required to get a magnificent mane of cascading curls. For adding definition and style while minimizing damage and frizz, follow these tips.

• Blot. Experts advise blotting hair gently with paper towels as opposed to thick, thirsty bath towels. Rubbing hair back and forth with a rough motion can damage it, making your tresses prone to frizzies.
• Detangle. If tangles, snarls and snags are a problem, just spray some detangler on damp hair. Your best bet for detangling is to use a wide-toothed comb. You can also use your fingers.
• Scrunching versus twisting. Scrunching is a popular way to promote curl. It involves grabbing a section of hair in your fist and squeezing, similar to the motion of crumpling a piece of paper. However, according to Real Simple, scrunching isn’t a good technique, because it "disturbs the curl pattern and creates more frizz," writes Gina Way.

  Instead, style your curls by twisting. First, add some serum to palms, rub hands together and run them through your hair, writes Julyne Derrick of About. Try Oscar Blandi Olio di Jasmine Hair Serum to keep frizzies at bay. It also brings shine and radiance to hair. Even better, serum "sits on top of your hair shafts and also protects hair from heat," notes Jennifer Tung, author of InStyle Getting Gorgeous. A small dime-sized squeeze is all you need — too much can cause greasiness. Then, carefully twist a bit of hair around your finger to create shape. For a natural look, use a mix of large and small sections while you twist.

• Better not to blow-dry. Using a blow-dryer heats up your hair and increases the chance of frizz, so let your hair air dry whenever you can. However, if time is of the essence, use a diffuser attachment on your blow-dryer. Either way, when hair is finally dry, keep your fingers out of it — touching hair encourages frizz.
• Give it to me straight. Straight-haired women are envious of your natural curls, but you still might wish for silky straight strands yourself. To straighten your hair, work in some styling cream for moisture and smoothness, such as Oscar Blandi Seta Silk Polishing Cream. You’ll also need a straightening iron — the right one for you will depend on your hair’s texture and length. Long, thick hair needs a high-watt iron with large "wide panels to hold a bit of hair," notes Tung. Fine or short hair is best straightened with smaller, lower-watt irons. For curly-haired women who want to straighten only their bangs, try a small mini-iron.

Chemical straightening processes

Don’t want to spend time and energy straightening your hair every day? Then, you might want to try a professional chemical process.

• Gentle relaxers use thick conditioner combined with ammonia and other chemicals to tone down curl. They’re great for Caucasian or African American hair that hasn’t been colored or chemically treated. The process takes an hour and the results can last from "three to six months," notes Tung. Typically, relaxers cost several hundred dollars. Keep in mind, there are some potential concerns like skin irritation and hair damage, according to KidsHealth.
• Thermal reconditioning, also known as Japanese straightening, involves a combination of chemicals and heated irons. The process affects hair cuticles, making hair straight and shiny. You’ll have chemicals in your hair for about 20-25 minutes, but thermal reconditioning takes about four hours from start to end. That’s because your stylist must iron your hair in tiny sections (a quarter of an inch at a time). After the process, hair can stay straight for six to 10 months.

  Thermal reconditioning poses several safety risks. Specifically, some women who’ve had this procedure suffered hair damage or even hair loss, according to ABC News. African American women or those with dyed hair shouldn’t have this treatment.

  If you opt for thermal reconditioning, be prepared to shell out big bucks. Prices depend on the salon, but it’s an expensive procedure. Hairfinder reports that prices range from $300 to $1,000, based on how long your hair is and the time it takes. Always make sure you’re going to a trained, licensed, reputable hairstylist.

  A quick tip: Avoid brushing your hair right before straightening, because the chance for scalp irritation increases.

• Brazilian Hair Treatment — whose brand names include Brazilian Keratin Treatment, Brazilian Blowout and Brazilian Hair Straightening — is a newer straightening technique that’s become very popular, because it can be used on many hair types. This treatment takes 1.5 to 4 hours and costs $150 to $600 depending on hair length and thickness, according to the New York Times. But it hasn’t been without controversy: Because the formula uses formaldehyde, which is a carcinogen, some are concerned over its safety.