Made from crushed minerals, such as mica, iron oxide, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, mineral makeup has been around since the 70’s in various forms — like foundation, powder, blush and eye shadow. Staunch supporters of mineral foundations love the light-as-silk texture and airbrushed finish, which is often radically different than a liquid or cream foundation that can appear heavy or pasty on the skin. Those with sensitive skin, acne or rosacea are drawn to the claims that it’s safer and less irritating to the skin. And almost everyone is tempted by the promise that mineral makeup is more "natural" and "pure." But are these claims true or false?
Is mineral makeup healthier?
Many companies promoting mineral makeup claim that their products are healthy for your skin. What do experts think? Dermatologist Leslie Baumann tells USA Today, "It is mainly marketing hype. The minerals in it have never been shown to be beneficial for your skin."
WebMD reports the same thing. Dermatologic and pharmaceutical chemist Ben Kaminsky tells WebMD that mineral makeup doesn’t come with any health benefits, explaining, "mineral makeup is just a genius marketing plan -- a new way of selling women the same ingredients that technically have been in makeup for years."
Still, dermatologists in the article do point out that mineral makeup, because it contains the anti-inflammatory ingredients titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, can calm skin, especially if you’re suffering from skin concerns like rosacea. It’s also noncomedogenic and, unlike some traditional beauty products, won’t exacerbate acne.
Is natural better?
Don’t be tricked into thinking that just because a powder is labeled natural that it’s free of ingredients that may irritate the skin. Many natural ingredients aren’t less likely to cause allergic reactions; consider how many people have food allergies. As such, read all ingredients and learn what is and isn’t safe for your skin and sensitivity level.
Some common natural ingredients that can cause irritation include salicylic acid (from wintergreen), glycolic acid (from sugar cane), citric acid (from grapefruit or lemon), papaya and lime.
Also, even though natural is touted as better for the skin, some chemicals and preservatives are actually good things. In fact, most skincare products contain some sort of preservative — parabens, for instance, prevent spoilage and extend the shelf life of the formula. Again, read labels carefully.
How pure is pure?
Finding a uniform definition for pure isn’t easy. Companies can call just about any formulation containing minerals pure, because there are no regulations governing cosmetics.
As with many cosmetic claims, pure doesn’t necessarily mean free of chemicals or preservatives. As long as the product contains some percentage of minerals, the company can market it as being purer than other makeup. But, many companies may still add synthetic fillers, dyes or fragrance to their products and claim purity. If you’re trying mineral makeup, because traditional makeup is irritating to your skin, verify that the product you’re considering is free of dyes or fragrance.
Read between the lines
Look out for these potentially irritating ingredients: bismuth oxychloride (adds a pearlescent finish and reflects light), boron (absorbs oil), talc (gives powder a satiny feel), carmine (reddish dye) and ethylhexyl palmitate (adds viscosity to makeup). These ingredients may cause allergic reactions.
Nanoparticles
Another reason to be cautious before purchasing mineral makeup is that in order to achieve the appropriate texture, most of the minerals are crushed to microscopic size — often called nanoparticles. What many people don’t realize is that minerals have different properties when they’re reduced to this small of a size, and if your skin is sensitive or prone to blemishes, mineral products may actually aggravate the skin, rather than soothe it.
Research director of The Environmental Working Group Jane Houlihan tells WebMD, "Minerals like zinc and titanium are safe when applied to healthy skin but in a micronized nanoparticle form, there remains a concern, particularly when applied to damaged skin, or when inhaled."
Sun sense
All mineral foundations offer some measure of sun protection — typically SPF 15 or higher. However, this doesn’t mean you can skip your daily application of sunscreen. Find a product that will work in tandem with mineral powders, such as SkinCeuticals Physical UV Defense SPF 30. In addition to defending against UV rays, this product will absorb quickly and provide a perfect base for your mineral powder.
Is mineral makeup right for you?
In addition to doing your homework on ingredients, consider whether mineral makeup is right for your skin type. For instance, just like any powder, dry skin types often feel that mineral powders accentuate dryness, lines and wrinkles. And many women with darker skin tones struggle to find a formula that doesn’t appear ashy or gray on their skin.
Are there any benefits?
Mineral makeup tends to appear more natural, without looking like you’ve slathered on too much makeup. As mentioned earlier, it’s noncomedogenic, so it shouldn’t aggravate acne.
If you do your homework and chose a brand of mineral makeup that’s as free from chemicals and preservatives as possible, you can find a high-quality product. For those with skin problems, such as acne and rosacea, mineral formulas often have excellent coverage, helping to hide redness and blemishes. For all skin types, the ease of application is also appealing.
With a built-in sponge applicator, Philosophy Supernatural Air Brushed Canvas is goof-proof and offers coverage for all skin types.
The bottom line
Not all mineral makeup is created equal, so it’s important to do your homework. Read the ingredient labels carefully before buying, and watch for signs of irritation just as you would with any new product.
See also:
A No-Sweat Beauty Routine All Summer Long
The Beauty of Natural Lashes