What is it? Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that comes from white willow bark. This mild acid breaks down blackheads and whiteheads by peeling the top layer of skin and clearing blocked pores. It's also a keratolytic agent, which means that it has both exfoliating and antiseptic properties and can assist in shedding dead skin cells that can cause acne when they mix with dirt and sebum.
When used in combination with other treatments, salicylic acid also helps active ingredients get absorbed into the skin. Additionally, salicylic acid softens keratin, a skin-forming protein and helps break down dry skin.
You'll find it in: Cleansers, toners, moisturizers and spot treatments containing salicylic acid in strengths of 0.5 percent to 2 percent can all be purchased over the counter. Those with sensitive skin should start with a lower strength and work their way up to higher strengths if needed. For especially stubborn acne, a dermatologist can prescribe stronger formulas from 5 percent up to 35 percent, as well as topical treatments that combine salicylic acid with other ingredients. Usually, these aren't designed for daily use. Be especially careful to follow your dermatologist's instructions when using prescription-strength treatments, as they can cause chemical burns if left on the skin for too long.
Our product picks: For an effective yet gentle acne cleansing system, try the Sensiclear 60 Day Deluxe Acne System, a revolutionary acne treatment. The patented ingredient Retextra is combined with salicylic acid to heal blemishes while helping to retexture the skin's surface. This three-part system contains a purifying cleanser, a balancing toner and an acne treatment lotion than can be safely applied to the entire face to treat existing blemishes and prevent new blemishes from forming.
For an occasional deep-cleansing that clears pores and exfoliates, try an at-home peel like Philosophy Microdelivery Peel. Containing salicylic acid, lactic acid and vitamin C, this kit is a complete at-home facial makeover.
What to expect: Because salicylic acid clears acne without over-drying, it's well tolerated by most people, including those with dry or sensitive skin. Those who notice uncomfortable redness or drying from other acne medications like benzoyl peroxide will most likely be able to use salicylic acid without any problem.
If dryness does occur, invest in an oil-free moisturizer. Allow the salicylic acid product to absorb completely into the pores before applying any type of moisturizer. If you still notice dryness or irritation, try a lower-strength concentration or decrease use to once a day or every other day.
Be aware that using other products in conjunction with salicylic acid (or other acne-fighting medications) may increase skin sensitivity. While using salicylic acid products, avoid using abrasive facial cleansers, products containing alcohol or other topical acne products. And finally, because these products increase sun sensitivity, make sunscreen application a daily habit.
Who should avoid it: People with oily skin might need to try additional acne treatments, because salicylic acid has no effect on sebum, the skin's natural moisturizing ingredient. For people with normal skin, sebum rarely leads to breakouts. However, oily skin types may find that excess sebum production leads to shiny skin and can also clog pores, leading to breakouts. In this case, salicylic acid might need to be combined with additional treatments that absorb oil and reduce shine.
Because the chemical composition of salicylic acid is very similar to aspirin, people who are allergic to aspirin shouldn't use salicylic acid. Pregnant women and anyone with specific medical concerns should see a doctor before starting any acne treatment. If you have rosacea, consult a dermatologist before trying salicylic acid, because it can actually worsen your condition.
Finally, don't forget to continue using salicylic acid even after your skin has cleared up. Your acne could easily return after the treatment is discontinued.